Formulating cosmetics makes baking macarons look easy. I find trial and error to be a lot of fun though, so if you want to read about my recipes (and failed recipes -_-) you can find that below!
My goal is to create a skincare line with:
Moisturizer: Lactobacillus ferment, Radish Root Ferment, glycerin, elfamoist, urea, betaine, lactic acid, allantoin, propanediol, petrolatum, dimethicone
Barrier repair: Phytosphingosine, niacinamide, d-panthenol, NAG, cholesterol, ceramides NP/AP/EOP, sunflower unsaponifiables, L-Carnitine, Adenosine, Zinc PCA
PIE/PIH: Azelaic acid, Tranexamic acid, THD, Phosphatidylcholine, Arbutin, Bisabolol, Madecassoside, Dipotassium Glyzerate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate, Colloidal Oatmeal
Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid, Bakuchiol, Resveratrol, Green Tea, Centella, Licorice, Tocopherol, Alpha Lipoic Acid, BHT, EDTA
Vitamin A: Retinaldehyde (ideally liposomal), Gluconolactone, Granactive retinoid, SAP, Soy Isoflavones, Chamomille, Trehalose, Beta Glucan, CoQ10, TECA, Barberry, CBD
Maybe in the future: Glycolipid cleanser, Sebum-inspired face oil
For this version I am changing the formula quite a bit!
After reading the phytosphingosine paper more closely (it compared 1% to 0.2% phytosphingosine), it seems like a lower percentage is just as good as a higher one. Which is great news for my wallet because ceramide complex is expensive ;-; So I will reduce ceramide complex from 40% to 20%, even though my lizard brain keeps hissing that more is always better. (I have to reign myself in constantly when formulating, for the sake of my skin barrier)
I also am finally able to work with linoleic acid!!! I have an order that will be coming in from china (I really really hope it's what it's supposed to be o_o). Triglycerides have a tendency to sit on the face, they just don't penetrate very well because they are so large! I also have not seen any research that shows that triglycerides can activate PPAR. Or that they increase hydration very much (they got nothing on petrolatum/silicones/glycerin). But when a triglyceride is broken apart, it becomes three fatty acids (which can activate PPAR and are much smaller so they get into the skin easier!) and a glycerin (you know I love you glycerin). A study shows linoleic acid is able to reduce acne comedome formation by 25% in a month by using just 2%!
Niacinamide, SAP and Panthenol have been shown to improve acne, so I don't think I have to explain much for their inclusion. I haven't seen anything to show NAG works on acne, but it boosts hydration, brightens uneven dark spots (like PIH) and has a mild exfoliating effect which could help keep pores clear (in theory).
20% Ceramide complex (aka 0.5% ceramides, 0.2% phytosphingosine)
5%? 2%? Linoleic Acid
5% Niacinamide
5% N-Acetyl Glucosamine
5% D-Panthenol
5% Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Water soluble antioxidant/anti-bacterial)
?% BHT (Oil soluble antioxidant for the linoleic acid :3)
?% EDTA? (Chelator to help protect everything from any metal ions, might not work with carbomer)
Sodium Carbomer (might change this to a dif thickener that plays well with edta)
Phenonip